By Leslie Kilgore EBS CONTRIBUTOR
While the ski season is ending in Big Sky and most locals are planning spring and summer adventures, it’s never too soon to start thinking about future bucket list trips for the next winter season. My family started a tradition years ago where we make a list of the resorts within a day’s drive that we hope to visit next ski season.
Last April, my goal was to visit Montana’s Big Hole Valley region to ski Lost Trail Ski Area and Maverick Mountain while staying at Jackson Hot Springs and Elkhorn Hotsprings Resort. I made the trip in March and it was one of the most memorable that I’ve had in Montana during the winter or summer months.
Native Americans who frequented the Big Hole Valley called it the “land of big snows,” and in the early 1800s, western explorer William Clark called it Hot Springs Valley in some of his expedition notes.
Known mostly to out-of-state travelers for its legendary blue ribbon trout fishing on the Big Hole River, southwest Montana’s Big Hole region is still the real West with multi-generational ranches, watering holes where everyone knows your name—if you’re local that is—and sprawling landscapes sparsely populated for the past 200 years.
The Big Hole National Battlefield is worth visiting to learn more about the significance of the region in Montana’s ranching development and the history of the Nez Perce Native American tribe. The visitor center is open year-round, and the park maintains three hiking and snowshoeing trails that provide insights and historical details about the area.
Skiing and soaking
The first night we stayed at Jackson Hot Springs. It’s a beautiful three-hour drive from Big Sky that passes through Dillon, which has a good stop for coffee, sandwiches and baked goods at Sweetwater Coffee. Provisions and gas are also a good idea in Dillon before starting the 45-minute remote drive to Jackson, Montana.
We arrived at Jackson Hot Springs on a Wednesday night. When planning the trip, we thought it wasn’t ideal, since the pools are closed for cleaning and draining on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. But we wanted to stay for two nights while also taking advantage of what they call “Powder Thursdays” at Lost Trail, so we sacrificed an evening soak upon arrival to ski Lost Trail on a Thursday morning. This ended up being one of the best decisions of the trip, since we had the resort and the pools to ourselves when the lodge opens for breakfast and early soakers at 8 a.m.
After a morning soak, we headed to Lost Trail for their weekly Thursday morning opening. Lost Trail closes to the public on Tuesdays and Wednesdays and is known for its mid-winter storms, where the powder is plenty when they reopen on Thursdays. While the powder wasn’t plentiful the day we skied, the dusting of a few inches over an already impressive snowpack was just enough to make for a fun day of exploring the small yet mighty mountain. With five old-school lifts and 1,800 feet of vertical terrain on 69 trails, the mountain has a variety of skiing for all levels, along with backcountry access through the backside of Chair 4.
For those who appreciate the nostalgia and atmosphere of skiing culture’s past, Lost Trail is a true gem. No high-speed chairs, high-end après bars or slope-side lunch spots. Just an iconic lodge that centers around a big cozy fireplace and a few old wooden benches where families, locals and staff sit to warm their feet. The small cafeteria has handwritten, colorful chalkboards that list the comfort food made-to-order and the beers on tap. Lots of powder and fun terrain with no frills.
After skiing, we drove an hour back to Jackson Hot Springs and the lodge’s bar was full and rowdy with local ranchers stopping by for happy hour, skiers and hot spring soakers there for the evening, and late-night patrons closing the pools and staying at the resort. The lodge has games, a pool table, shuffleboard, a good sound system blaring country music, a small casino, and a large fireplace with big leather chairs where people played cards, cribbage and checkers. The atmosphere was lively yet cozy and intimate at the same time—true Montana.
The restaurant serves food late, and their prime rib special was recommended, which did not disappoint. When we left the pool and bar at 11 p.m., there were still people hanging out until closing time. For Jackson being a small town with a population of about 40 people, Jackson Hot Springs provided an entertaining night.
The next day, we checked out early after another morning soak and headed to Maverick Mountain. With one riblet double chair, 2,000 feet of skiing and day passes for $49, Maverick is also a blast from skiing’s past, and another reminder of why supporting the small “mom-and-pop” ski areas around the state is so important for keeping that culture alive.
Also open Thursday through Sunday, Maverick doesn’t get as much powder as Lost Trail, but it does have 24 runs of fun terrain and fast, rolling groomers. A lively vibe of locals in the small lodge, cafeteria and bar made ski breaks and après even better. To say the lodge is retro is an understatement—just check out the shag carpet in the lower level of the lodge, including on the ceilings.
Down the road from Maverick is Elkhorn Hotsprings. While the lodge and hot springs are bare bones, the resort is relaxed, clean, and one-of-a-kind. Built in 1918, lunch and dinner are served in the main lodge. Like Jackson Hot Springs, overnight guests and soakers hang out at the bar while watching sports and dining with friends and family. Breakfast is also served and included with your stay.
The main pool at Elkhorn is rustic, and one of my favorite things about soaking there is that the resort is nestled in the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest and along Hot Springs Creek. The surrounding trees and views make the experience even better.
When driving back to Big Sky, we joked that our four-day, three-night trip was the budget-friendly, Montana version of a bucket list ski trip to Japan. Powder, hot springs, nightlife, good food, historical landmarks, and interesting conversations with locals were all a part of the adventure. Sure, Japan is always on my family’s list for our future skiing and traveling goals, but I’ll take the Big Hole Valley any season for a true Montana skiing experience. I will certainly be returning in the winters to come.
