Road Trip: Lava Hot Springs

A historic Idaho town centered on wellness, nature and healing waters

By Leslie Kilgore EBS CONTRIBUTOR

This time of year, I’m always looking for new hot springs to soak and rest after the many months of winter sports and below-freezing temperatures, and before the hot summer days of July and August arrive.

One of my favorites in the area is Lava Hot Springs in Idaho. Just a five-hour drive from Big Sky, the town is filled with a variety of hot pools along the Portneuf River to go cold plunging and tubing in as well. There’s a waterpark during the summer months with an Olympic size pool, water slides and several large diving platforms. It’s always chilly enough to have a good soak in some varying water temps, but also nice to enjoy the sunshine and the blossoming gardens that surround the property.

My daughter and I recently visited the springs on our way home from a trip to the East Coast. We often fly out of Salt Lake City airport, both for cheaper flights and so we can stay at Lava Hot Springs for a night or two.

Like many small towns in the Rocky Mountain region, there’s a history to the area of Lava Hot Springs, which is indicative of the architecture on its Main Street. While many Airbnb cabins and tiny homes have recently popped up around town and along the river, the historical buildings and hotels, each with their own hot spring pools, still take precedence. Many of the hotels also offer day passes, which are a bit more expensive, but provide a quieter soak than the main pools and facilities in town.

My favorite hotel is the Lava Hot Springs Inn & Spa for an overnight stay or a day pass and water therapy treatment. A very eclectic and historical hotel, guests are offered a complimentary hot breakfast each morning and priority on spa appointments, which include a variety of healing modalities in their water therapy pool right along the river.

Along with soaking, tubing and lots of water time, Lava Hot Springs also offers some fun shopping, a few coffee shops with healthy snacks and smoothies, and good dining options downtown, all within walking distance from the hotels and hot springs. Here are a few of my favorite.

Dempsey Creek Trading Company is the best shop in town to wander through and look at the intricate Native American jewelry, rugs, clothing, blankets and skulls. Their jewelry and stone collections are robust, and the owner is knowledgeable and helpful in sharing information.

Purple Moon World Market is another fun store to peruse with plenty of crystals, candles, jewelry, astrological trinkets and other knickknacks that fit with the vibe of the wellness-focused community.

While dining options are limited in Lava, there are a few spots that stand out. The Portneuf Grille & Lounge is located in the Riverside Hot Springs Inn & Spa and offers a relaxed atmosphere that the owners describe as “an ambiance that reflects a time gone by of Lava’s 20s and 30s, where the west and bootlegging inspired a storied history.” The menu highlights dishes with Pacific Northwest and Rocky Mountain influences and a great regional wine menu too. The patio along the river in the summer makes the experience even better.

Riverwalk Thai Food has been a staple in Lava Hot Springs for decades and is great for a low-key, quick meal with authentic homemade dishes and reasonable prices.

The Rooftop Bar is a fun stop for American bar staples and their Day Drinkers Breakfast Buffet on Saturdays and Sundays is great for those who like a big meal at the start of their day. It’s “All You Can Eat” for $10.99 per person, and the Bloody Marys are good too. The views are fantastic when the weather is right.

While there are a lot of activities to choose from when visiting Lava Hot Springs at any time of year, the Spring into Wellness festival would be an ideal trip to plan for those looking to improve their health and wellbeing, which is a big draw for many who visit the area. The weekend includes speakers, exhibitors, healthy meals, body treatments and plenty of water therapy.

Lava Hot Springs is a great destination to unwind and unplug, whether it’s for one night passing by to other Idaho and Utah destinations or for a multi-day visit. Everything is within walking distance, the options for soaking are plenty and the riverside body treatments never disappoint. It’s a spot I’ve been visiting for more than 25 years that has not changed much in that time, and I never seem to tire of how I feel after an annual visit.